Oil costs rose dramatically in 2022. That isn’t simply the broadly tracked barrel of crude. The price of olive oil, a moderately extra area of interest commodity, has additionally spiked. That’s the pits for Islington households searching for one thing to drizzle on their endive — and a worrying signal of issues to return.
The value rise has been sharp. Final December, further virgin oil — the most costly form, produced from cold-pressed olives — touched €5.5 per litre in Italy. That’s up 50 per cent in comparison with the earlier 12 months, and is about double the worth in 2020. Different olive oils have elevated much more.
Olive oil is a staple in producing international locations — nonna’s pasta sauce is swimming within the stuff. And the rising reputation of the Mediterranean food regimen has elevated olive oil consumption globally: it’s up twofold since 1990.

However the spike isn’t pushed by liberal use of oil. It’s the provide that has withered. Juicy olives are the product of temperate climate and a few rainfall. A scorching summer time in Italy and Spain — the 2 greatest producers — has prompted European manufacturing to fall 34 per cent, in line with estimates by the European Fee.
The value improve goes to chew. That isn’t a lot of a problem for shoppers within the UK and US, the place olive oil remains to be a distinct segment — and elite — product. Per capita consumption is just one litre a 12 months there. Nonetheless, Spaniards, Italians and Greeks guzzle 10 litres a head. By this reckoning, a household of 4 that likes further virgin olive oil would possibly spend some €220 a 12 months. They now have a great incentive to change to cheaper oils, if just for cooking.

Firms that promote olive oil could also be squeezed too, as they wrestle to move on the worth improve to shoppers. CVC-controlled Deoleo, the main olive oil producer globally with manufacturers together with Carapelli and Bertolli, emerged from a debt restructuring in 2020. Its ebit margin is about to fall to three.15 per cent of revenues in 2023, in line with S&P Capital IQ estimates, down from 5.4 per cent in 2021.
Olive harvests have good years and dangerous years. However the concern is that scorching Mediterranean summers would possibly develop into extra frequent as local weather change advances. That may add pricier olive oil to the record of penalties — and spell dangerous information for the salad days of Islington.
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